Turkey

Off to Istanbul
Had a 4.00am wake up call grabbed our bags and set out in the dark to catch the 4.27am vaporetto to Piazzale Roma to catch the 5.00am bus to the airport. We finally arrived in Istanbul mid afternoon after delays at Milan because of fog. We were met by Attilla, who spoke fluent English and took us to our hotel, The Romance, in the old town. We wandered the streets as darkness fell and came across a small restaurant called “Café Home Made”. A moslem woman with headscarf was sitting in the window rolling flat bread, and cooking it to order and it seemed to have an authenticity so we thought we’d give it a try….BINGO……one of the best nights we’ve ever had in a restaurant. The waiters were a hoot, the food was fantastic, and we ended up dancing around the tables after being plied with various liquors and baklava, as well as being given a shoulder massage!!!! Haven't had that in Australia!

Istanbul Day 2
Met our guide, Ozer (Ozeer) who quickly became “Aussie”, and the rest of the tour group…..only 10 of us, no kids, all Aussies…Perfect!!! One small hitch, Hyacynth Bucket was amongst them with her long suffering husband…Headed off in rain to the museum of St Sophia, St Saviour in Chora Chapel (magnificent mosaics), the underground cistern built in roman times to store water, then lunch at a seafood restaurant on the Bosphorous. This was followed by a cruise along the Bosphorous and a visit to the Spice market……….love this place……you are overwhelmed by the most exotic smells, and colours, but do get hassled by the traders.
Spice market Istanbul

Cappadocia Day 3
Another 4.00am start to catch a flight to Kayseri, in Cappadocia. Security was very tight, even had armed guards at the airport. After landing we were driven to our hotel the Yeni Yukseller, in Nevsehir. In the afternoon we explored the region visiting an underground city, the fairy chimneys, and a pottery that made the most intrically decorated pieces. I was tempted to add to the "Copeland collection", but common sense prevailed in the end.


Cappadocia Day 4.
Today we visited the Goreme Open Air Museum, with its amazing frescoes dating from the 8th century. Many were in remarkable condition but the majority had been defaced by the Moslems. Also visited the underground galleries at of Ozkonak where the first Christians hid themselves from rivals, and took a walk in Avcilar, Pasabagi and the red valley of Dervent, to see the chimney like formations in “Love Valley”.
Also had a chance to visit a carpet factory and watch the women weaving the most intricate patterns, and saw how the wool and silk were woven and dyed. I even had a turn at weaving, but failed miserably and wasn't offered employment!!This was followed by a very detailed description and display of the most beautiful carpets while we sipped apple tea. Once again I was tempted to add to the "Copeland Collection" but common sense got the better of me.
A couple more photo stops to see the extraordinary Fairy Chimneys then on to a winery……don’t particularly like the wine, but we still sampled quite a bit while coming to this conclusion.
Tonight dinner at a local restaurant, Yasarbaba, with a floor show of Turkish dancing. It was underground in a cave carved out of rock, even the benches and tables were carved insitu, and covered with kilims. The seats were heated as well which made for a very comfortable evning. The dancing was spectacular and each one told a story. The wedding was the best, with diners asked to join in a conger line after the bride accepted the betrothal, and we danced around the restaurant and weaved our way up a gangway and into a yard where a bonfire was lit and we became wedding guests, dancing and chanting to the beat of drums. A belly dancer then did her bit to the satisfaction of the males in the audience.

Konya, Antalya Day 5.
An early start to head off to Antalya, on the Mediterranean coast. First stop was a caravanserai which was remarkable for its carved stone work from the 12th century. This was a place where traders and their animals could stay as they travelled the country trading their goods…..the equivalent of our motels, but it was free if they didn’t stay more than 3 days.
On to Konya to visit the whirling dervishes museum and the Mevlana Mausoleum, which has the hair from Mohammed, and is considered a very sacred place by Moslems, which was obvious by the numbers there, paying homage and kissing the glass case which holds the hair. Then it was lunch in another caravanserai, which had been restored and was set up to host busloads of tourists…we were lucky as we were early as we had a long drive ahead of us, so we ate on our own, leaving just as the Germans and Japanese arrived, then on to Antalya arriving around 6.00pm, greatly relieved to find our hotel, “The Cangar” a vast improvement on the one in Cappadocia, but that’s another story. The food however was crap…breakfast olives, fetta cheese, boiled eggs, bread and jam. The dinner was also crap, and to makethings worse the leftovers from tonight, were rehashed the next night!!!!

Antalya, Day 6
Today we were taken to the ancient city of Perge, another amazing site from Roman times, which wasn’t overrun with tourists so we were able to enjoy wandering around and given a wonderful historical coverage by our guide, Oser.
After this we headed off to Aspendos to see the best preserved Roman theatre in the ancient world which is still used for concerts today, and seats around 20,000. After climbing to the top, Denise, one of our group sang “The hills are alive..”, so we could check out the acoustics……..they were superb.
Lunch was in a cave restaurant, which dripped water on us….not so great.

Aphrodisias / Pamukkale Day 7
Morning drive to Aphrodisias, a cultural centre of the ancient world renowned for its sculpture and and its temple dedicated to the Goddess of Beauty, Aphrodisia. We admired the largest antique stadium in which 30,000 could watch music and drama performances, as well as sporting events. It is still being excavated today. As we drove through the small towns, Oser, pointed out many roofs that had a bottle on the roof. These are placed when a family has a daughter they want to marry off. The boy who can shoot the bottle wins her hand. He only gets one chance however..if he misses he loses the girl.
We all loved today’s lunch particularly the quince jam and Turkish yogurt (yort) on bread……much like Devonshire tea.
The afternoon took us on to Pamukkale where we saw the natural white alabaster-like wonderland whose Turkish name translates to “Cotton Castle”, in the ancient city of Hierapolis. On a plateau, 100m above the town the gleaming basins and stalactites have been created over the centuries by hot mineral cascades turning calcium carbonate into travertine. Much of the area had “died” as hotels were allowed to be build beside these pools and the constant abuse by humans had almost destroyed them. A massive reconstruction is underway now, the hotels have been removed and water is again flowing, helping recreate more pools.
The nearby archaeological site of Hierapolis includes an imposing Roman theatre, an agora (market place) city gates and latrines. Below this is the Necropolis, lower city, and burial ground. Most of this has been destroyed by earthquakes and grave robbers but is still an amazing site, with much to still be uncovered.
Our hotel, The Herakles, in Denzili, has a thermal centre, with water coming out of the ground at 50c, and in the pool it was 42c.

At Sea

Armonia
Had a look around the ship and I took part in the safety instruction……I’m sure it was just a photo opportunity for the crew as everyone had their picture taken with their life jacket on, looking like idiots, as we lined up at our “muster station”…these mug shots were then displayed for all and sundry, in the “photo gallery”.
We are on a table for dinner with 6 poms, not much excitement there!!!


Day 2 Bari
Had a leisurely morning before taking the opportunity to join a tour when we arrived in Bari. This was to Alberobello to see the trulli houses which are cylindrical buildings topped with a pointed cone made of local stone.

Day 3 Corfu
We departed from the port on a panoramic drive through the countryside covered in olive and orange trees, cyprus, pine and eucalyptus trees, finally arriving in the northwest side of the island at the beautiful bay of Paleokastriza……straight out of “Shirley Valentine”. We visited an ancient monastery which is full of examples of Byzantine painting. We also witnessed the monks preparing wooden wine vats ready for the next harvest. No machines here…very labour intensive. Down in the crypt were the remains of the equipment used when the monastery also made it’s own olive oil. On the return to the ship, we stopped in the old town of Corfu which was a delight, but nothing like the image I have always had of what the Greek Islands were like. Much of it felt like Paris, as many buildings were designed by the same architect who worked on the Buildings in Rue de Rivoli.


In the evening we were invited to attend the “Welcome Cocktail Party” put on by Captain Giuseppe Galano….this was hysterical as it appeared to be a ruse to get everyone on board to have their photo taken with the captain!!! This was after we were hearded in a very long queue which wound around one of the bars past 2 other photographers, poised in front of Italian backdrops, ready to take even more photos. After standing in the line for more than ¾ hour we finally arrived at the door to the auditorium where we were let in one couple at a time to stand beside the very bored looking captain. The dress code was formal and we were very surprised to see how many conformed (we were not included in this group.) For our trouble we were given a glass of champagne and nibbles and watched some very serious guests get up on stage to take part in some ballroom dancing, ( by this stage we were nearly falling off out chairs), but even more mirth was generated when one elderly couple were leaving the stage and a very lively tune was struck by the band, this was obviously a favourite of theirs as they rushed back on stage, tripping on the way to participate. All the senior members of the crew were then introduced, leaving us to wonder who was driving the boat?

Day 4. Santorini
We cruised into the bay at Santorini just after lunch…..what a breath taking sight!!! Santorini is actually a group of 5 small islands, but we were visiting the main one Thera, which is situated in a large caldera created by several large volcanic eruptions. Most of the volcanic layers are visible in the multi-coloured layers of the impressive step inner walls of the caldera, striking the visitor who reaches the island by boat. As there is no port we were ferried ashore on a tender boat from where we caught a cable car up a very steep slope to the calital, Fira, a pretty spot but very much tourist oriented. Having decided we would do our own thing, rather than an organised tour, we caught up with some aussies who we had met in Alberobella, Ann, Don, Mia. Tess and Jordan Horsley, and decided to hire a vehicle and drive around the island together. A vehicle for 7 was not available so 2 cars were the answer…this was a challenge…manual, and driving on the wrong side of the road, but Chris managed very well. We headed down to the picturesque town of Oia, which is a typical Greek village characterised by narrow streets and white churches with blue domes. The remainder of the afternoon was spent driving around the island before meeting up with the “aussies” for dinner in a typical taverna called Koutouri. We sat outside and ate traditional greek food, under bouganvillia vines weighed down with massed purple flowers. Another cable car trip down to the bay had us arriving just in time to catch the last tender out to our boat.

Day 5. Pireus, Athens.
Joined another tour to go, by bus to the Acropolis, and to have a look around the old part of Athens. Overwhelmed by the history, but unfortunately the place had been overrun by many huge coaches so it was packed, and everyone was jostling for a place. Our guide Christof was very knowledgeable, but was drowned out by the other guides speaking in various languages……a bit of a bun fight!!!

Day 6. Katakolon.
Joined our Aussie friends and hired a 7 seater to drive to Olympia, the site of the original Olympics. We weren’t all that excited to go there initially but after having done it I’m so pleased we did. The history was amazing……the site of the lighting of the original Olympic flame, which is still the location today, the beautiful location of the first Greco-Roman wrestling, the running track. Quite an extraordinary experience. We returned to Katakolon to have a look around the shops where we were harrased by all the shopkeepers, so we retired to the water front for drink in sight
of our boat. Walking back to the ship, the lads were in a lather as we followed a stunning young woman, wearing a very brief G-string, covered by a cheesecloth shirt, and wearing high heels. There was a rush to see who could be the one to follow her up the gangplank!!!!

Day 7 Dubrovnik
Unfortunately the day dawned with a downpour, but as we had booked a bus to take us into the old town we went ahead. The rain held off for the first hour or so giving us a great opportunity to have a look at this remarkable town. The ravages of war had left their mark with bullet holes in most of the buildings, but much restoration was in progress. This is a very special place and we would have spent more time there if the heavens hadn’t opened……no where to shelter, so back to the bus, but we still had to wait for at least ½ hour for the bus to arrive so by the time we were back on board we were drenched.


Day 8 Disembarkation in Venice.
Back into Venice to check into our hotel The Abbazia…..what a find. It was right near the station and close to a vaporetto stop, so it was perfect for getting around. As we had a very early start the next day we just had a wander around and took a vaporetto around the island, and across to Chiesa di S. Giorgio.

Venice Day 4

Set out early again to get to St Marks before the crowds……the crowds weren’t nearly as big but the square was having one of its days of flooding so you had to walk on platforms to get into the church. Unfortunately, as it was Sunday and services were in progress we couldn’t go into the body of the church but we still got to see quite a lot.
Next stop, the Arsenal, second site for the Venice Biennale………..this was fantastic, so inspiring, and so much fun. Imagine if you can, a magnificent chandelier filling the entire entry foyer as you enter the building. It must have been at least 5 metres tall and took one’s breath away, until on closer inspection we noted it was made entirely of tampons!!!!!! Pity we couldn’t have spent more time here, but we had a ship to catch .

Armonia ....our home for the next seven days
Had a look around the ship and I took part in the safety instruction……I’m sure it was just a photo opportunity for the crew as everyone had their picture taken with their life jacket on, looking like idiots, as we lined up at our “muster station”…these mug shots were then displayed for all and sundry, in the “photo gallery”.
We are on a table for dinner with 6 poms, not much excitement there!!!

Venice Day 3

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection…………. many superlatives would not do justice to describe this magnificent collection of modern art, set up in Peggy’s home on the Grand Canal. She had a penchant for the surreal and avant –garde, so we were up close and personal with works from Picasso, Miro, Ernst, Dali and Jackson Pollock and many others.
From here we took a ferry to the Lido, an island off Venice which is a beach resort for the locals…not anything like the beaches we are familiar with and not where I would go for a beachside holiday, but the main town is lovely and had some very interesting shops, but they close from 12.00 – 16.00, just the time were there. Here there are cars and buses unlike Venice, as there are no canals on the island. We then hopped on
another ferry to the island of Murano. This is similar to Venice with canals winding through it and is the home to the Venetian glass makers. We enjoyed wandering around the various glass factories and saw some beautiful pieces that we were tempted to purchase, but the prices were out of our league.
Our dinner that evening, as it waqs Chris’s birthday was inside at a little seafood reataurant. All the prices looked very reasonable but we asked the waiter for his recommendation…… “flounder for 2 with tomato and potato”…..BIG MISTAKE….
When the bill arrived the fish was priced at 98 euros (about A$150)…when asked about it we were told that it was priced on weight!!!!!!!! Note to all…don’t order flounder in Venice!!!

Venice day 2

Another early start to head over to St Mark’s Square, but early enough…..the queues were horrendous so we did the tour of the Palazzo Ducale instead. This is the ornate and many roomed seat of the doge and home to Venice’s various offices of state for almost a thousand years. We moved through one lavishly deigned room to another surrounded by the works of Veronese, Tintoretto and other Venetian masters…magnificent!!!!!
Following the water we walked to the Giardini Pubblici, one of the sites for the Venice Biennale. This was very disappointing…..no art as we know it, but many light and video presentations, with wind, sound strange effects etc…..not our cup of tea.
Another great dinner in a campo near the hotel…..spaghetti with mussels and vongole!!!!

Off to Venice

The equivalent of a Venetian traffic jam!!

Off to Venice
Had an early start to walk to Interlaken West Station to catch a train to Spiez, where we picked up our connection to Milan. Typical Swiss efficiency had out seats marked so we settled in to enjoy the picturesque countryside through the Alps……not to be…. it was tunnels most of the way so not much to see, however we noticed a marked contrast in everything when we crossed into Italy, the scenery was unspectacular, the buildings grubby and their surrounds unkept compared to Switzerland. When we caught our connection to Venice at Milan we also had to laugh when we found our booked seats were diagonally opposite each other….once again not like Switzerland!!!!!

All that aside…..we arrived in Venice…..how magnificent, even better than expected. We caught the water taxi 82 to the Rialto Bridge and walked to Rome looking for our hotel, The Palazzo Sant’Angelo, only to find later that we could have caught a number 1 that would have dropped us at the door….note to self “do your homework next time!”
Despite all the hiking, which gave us a fabulous first impression of Venice, our hotel was a gem when we eventually found it. (photo above is part of our room) ....Click on any picture and it will enlarge it....I've only just worked that one out!!!
We wandered into a nearby palazza for dinner and had pasta and fresh asparagus sitting under umbrellas enjoying a very balmy evening….it doesn’t get much better!!.

From Chris in Venice

Walking our feet off in Venice - here's a couple of pics until Meg does a detailed update.